Magazine Ladakhs population of 275,000 is stretched across roughly 23,000 square milesits as if the population of Newark, New Jersey, were spread across West Virginia. The rest of India is about 80 times as dense. As a result, villages in Ladakh tend to be wealthier than their Indian counterparts; Nimmu boasts large, well-built homes and ample tracts of fertile farmland irrigated by the Indus. Given the regions relative prosperity, families with school-age children and young adults who are starting a career often relocate from the countryside to the more urban environs of Leh in search of a better education or higher-paying jobs. As we walk back to our house and pass several silent, dark homes, I wonder how long this rural way of life will last. About an hours drive from Nimmu we come to Alchi, site of the regions most ancient Buddhist architecture, dating back roughly a thousand years. Near the entrance to these edifices (now more like a museum than a living monastery), on an alleyway filled with trinket and amulet vendors, sits Alchi Kitchen. After entering the restaurant and taking a seat, I note that the menu lists dozens of dishes (including ngamthuk, a tsampa soup, and thangthuri, leafy greens with buttermilk) that I havent eaten, or even heard of, during my stay in Ladakh. We just opened two months ago, says the owner, Nilza Wangmo. Were the only Ladakhi restaurant in Ladakh. ON TOP OF THE WORLD | Table and chairs outside a teahouse near the Khardung La road pass (altitude: 17,582 feet).Photo: Quentin De Briey for WSJ.
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